Weekly CASPO Seminar: Join us in Nierenberg 101 every Wednesday at 3:30 pm to hear about the latest and greatest in Climate, Atmospheric Sciences, and Physical Oceanography!
Prof. Stephen Monismith (Stanford University) will be presenting a talk titled "Waves and wave-driven flow over reefs".
Using simple models and observations, I will discuss the fluid mechanics of wave driven flow over coral reefs. I will first present results of observations made on the north shore of Moorea that illustrate several important features of how these flow work: (1) Stokes drift, the net transport due to oscillatory motions of the waves, plays a significant role in the net flow over the forereef; (2) The radiation stress model used to analyze longshore flows on beaches works reasonably well for predicting the setup of the free surface that drives flow inshore of the surfzone; and (3) the waves themselves are quite nonlinear on the shallow forereef immediately offshore of the surf zone, although key quantities like radiation stress and Stokes drift can be predicted with reasonable accuracy using the free- surface variance (rather than simple wave height) without knowing the profile of the waves themselves. I will also show observations from Palmyra Atoll that demonstrate that the hydrodynamic roughness of a healthy, relatively pristine reef can be an order of magnitude larger than what is seen on reefs significantly affected by human actions. Finally, I will also discuss recent work on wave-driven flows carried out by our group on the shallow reef lagoon at Ofu, American Samoa.
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